Uganda part 2 - Murchinson Falls NP

The long drive from Entebbe to Murchinson Falls NP on December 1st was enjoyable, as we practiced our collective birding skills spotting and identifying roadside birds. We arrived at Kuchumbanyambo Gate at dusk and were greeted by calling Fiery-necked Nightjars by the gate.

We stayed at the wonderful Sambiya River Lodge. This was the view from my room:

Lots of wildlife inside the lodge, including Warthogs

As always, it was challenging to leave the lodge and head out to the park with so many birds in the carpark. 

Our first morning in the park itself (December 2nd) was stunning. Being surrounded by so many mammals and birds, in beautiful habitat, made the safari experience very special. Cool birds seen during the first few hours included: 

The delicate Vinaceous Dove

Crazy Blue Malkoha

And the stately Gray Kestrel

Mammals were plentiful, with large herds of Ugandan Kob, Rothchild's Giraffe, and several other ungulates.

Hartebeest

Oribi

1,2,3,4 Rothchild's Giraffes

Interestingly, many of the giraffes had white faces and necks. I don't have a good explanation for this.

My personal highlight in Murchinson Falls NP was the boat trip on the Nile. We did the comprehensive trip, and it was incredible. If you visit Murchinson Falls, don't miss this boat trip. Fantastic birds (eBird checklist here) and wildlife, super photo opps, and unique vistas.

Seeing the riparian habitat from the water was very special

Made even more special with different eyes focused on us...

Nile Crocodile

Nile Hippopotamus

Mantled Guereza

Out of the sky dropped a flock of 140 Abdim's Storks onto a nice sandbar. 

A small group of six African Skimmers graced that same sandbar. Amazing birds with an incredible bill.

Several Giant Kingfishers were seen very well - excellent stuff.

Male

Female

We sailed past a breeding colony of Red-throated Bee-eaters - total gems:

An old colony

We sailed up the river as close to the falls as possible. Such a mighty experience.

Not far from the falls we found a lovely flock of 22 Rock Pratincoles. I almost started crying. Beautiful, dream birds.

The bloody camera didn't focus

African Darter

Most of December 3rd was spent safari-driving and birding in the park. So many birds were seen. I like birds that have 'Abyssinian Roller' in their name.

Abyssinian Roller

Abyssinian Ground-Roller

We visited the top of Murchinson Falls which was impressive.

There were several Rock Pratincoles up there too. In this video, the mighty roaring power of the water can be appreciated (volume on):

Back in safari mode, Piapiac is a curious magpie relative. It was quite abundant in the park, often seen associating with herds of mammals.

Patas Monkey - very sweet

Beaudouin's Snake-Eagle with its meal still sticking out of its bill

We had lunch at Pakuba Lodge that was exploding with birds (eBird checklist here), despite the midday heat. 

Shelley's Rufous Sparrow

Poor photo of a great bird - Swallow-tailed Bee-eater

This Marabou came in for a chlorinated drink in the swimming pool:

Our FAM tour crew - Julie, Luis and Marabou

Uganda part 1 - Entebbe and Mabamba Swamp - Shoebill!

I have recently returned for a fantastic trip to Uganda. The trip was organized by Herbert Byaruhanga, in his capacity as Chairman of the Uganda Safari Guides Association, together with members, in collaboration with Bird Uganda Safaris, the Uganda Wildlife Authority, the National Forestry Authority, and selected hotels and lodges. It was a FAM (familiarization) trip for a group of bird people from different parts of the world, to help promote birding tourism in Uganda.

I left Israel on November 30th. In Addis Ababa I met up with my Canuck brother Yousif. We enjoyed every minute of our layover in Bole International Airport, birding through the terminal windows, appreciating every bit of wildlife we spotted. Especially surprising were the Palearctic migrants we saw, including Pied Wheatears, and a poor thrush Nightingale trapped inside the terminal.

My bird photo of the year (not) - phone photo, through bins, through airport window, of a Pied Wheatear

We landed with great excitement in Entebbe, and were driven to our accommodation on the outskirts of the city, at Jet Villas. We quickly headed outside for a first taste of enjoyable farmland birding by our accommodation. Of course, as Mazungus, we attracted considerable attention from the local kids, who escorted us during most of our walk. 

We saw lots of great birds just outside our accommodation, including Palm-nut Vultures, African Harrier-Hawk, Lizard Buzzard, and many other cool, common farmland birds.

Juvenile African Harrier-Hawk

Those legs - wow!

Lizard Buzzard

Red-cheeked Cordon-Bleu showing exactly why it's named 'Red-cheeked'

Red-chested Sunbird

White-throated Bee-eater

Next day (December 1st) we met up with the rest of our team - from USA, Colombia, Argentina and Spain. They were staying at the Boma Lodge, where stunning Northern Brown-throated Weavers breed at the carpark.

We took a boat from Vanga Beach, and sailed across Lake Victoria to reach Mabamba Swamp, home of the legendary Shoebill. The boat ride across the lake and through the main channel was actually very good fun with lots of great birds.

Long-toed Lapwing from up close

Malachite Kingfisher

We met up with Innocent the Shoebill expert and the other local guides, hopped onto smaller boats and set off to explore the Mabamba Swamp. Our local guides worked hard!

Soon we arrived at a location where a Shoebill had been spotted earlier that morning. And there it was, in all its glory. The legendary, monstrous, incomprehensible Shoebill. Stood in front of our boat, doing its thing (which wasn't much, mainly preening).

We had a magical time with the Shoebill, keeping a safe distance not to disturb the bird, close enough to enjoy every feather and every move. We all felt very privileged to share space and time with this unbelievable creature. On our first morning in Uganda!

Check that huge tongue inside the bill

When the Shoebill preened the mantle feathers, we noticed it was carrying a satellite tag. Later on we found out that it was one of the young birds tagged by Judith Mirembe / Shoebill Watch Uganda earlier this year. 

Eventually the bird took off heavily, displaying its enormous size and huge wings. Wow. 

We then continued to explore the swamp, seeing two more Shoebills in flight, and observing Lesser Jacana (no photos unfortunately), Beaudouin's Snake-Eagle, Blue-breasted Bee-eaters and many more great birds. 

This boat trip was an unforgettable experience. Innocent and the other guides showed great expertise, and also respect towards the Shoebill, without pushing too hard. I strongly recommend to take this fantastic boat trip in Mabamba Swamp.