In early September I travelled to Kenya. My primary reason was to participate in the Global BirdLife Partnership Meeting in Nairobi. However, with the amazing birding available in Kenya, I had to extend my trip by a few days for dedicated birding. I chose two destinations, not too distant from Nairobi, and where birding on foot is possible at some sections - Aberdares NP, and Mt. Kenya NP. This trip was really more about birds than mammals, unusually for E Africa. I had planned this trip together with my friend Gergo Halmos, director of MME (BirdLife Hungary). We used the services of Cisticola Tours, managed by Washington Wachira, another good friend. I strongly recommend Cisticola for your birding needs in Kenya.
Our driver and local guide, Jack, picked us up from the airport, and we set off birding immediately. It was Gergo's first visit to E Africa, so every Superb Starling and Northern Fiscal perched on a roadside wire was new and exciting for him, which reminded me how fantastic are common, roadside birds in Kenya. Our first birding stop was at Manguo wetland, on the outskirts of Nairobi. We saw there the expected selection of wetland birds, with some quality offered by a distant Maccoa Duck. Sad to see the wetland decimated by the expansion of the adjacent highway.
From there we started climbing up to the Aberdare ridge. A random stop by the Naivasha-Kinangop junction reminded me who much I love countryside birding in E Africa. So many birds, so much fun.
African Thrush
Cape Robin-Chat
Red-fronted Barbet
White-fronted Bee-eater
On the way to Aberdare NP, we stopped at Kinangop plateau. Our guide Jack is originally from there, and knows so much about the wildlife and conservation of this unique region. The main reason to visit the globally Endangered Sharpe's Longclaw. This rare pipit is found only in few grassland patches in in the Kenya highlands. Kkinangop plateau is probably the most famous place to track this bird down. It took a little bit of searching but thanks to Jack's knowledge and field skills, we found a pair and enjoyed great views. They were breeding (carrying food), so we left them in peace very quickly.
Sharpe's Longclaw
This is the breeding habitat of Sharpe's Longclaw. Grazing is crucial for the pipit. However, even this site where we saw them isn't protected. Note the new development in the back left, a new fence ahead of some construction, destroying about a third of the available habitat at this site. Scary.
From there we climbed up to Aberdare NP, which we entered at Mutubio Gate. We spent two nights inside the national park: one night in The Ark, the second night in Cedar Retreat Lodge. Both lodges were great, though birding along the walking trail by the Cedar Retreat Lodge was better. Much of the birding was spent high up in the alpine zone, over 3500 m asl. Bird density and diversity aren't huge up there, but we were looking for some special species. Aberdare Cisticola is an endemic, confined to the Aberdare NP and another small highland area further west in Kenya, Mau Narok Molo grasslands. The weather was pretty tough when we searched for it, with rain and cold wind, but eventually we found a few. Awesome little bird.
Aberdare Cisticola
Aberdare Cisticola habitat in brighter weather
Sadly we failed to find the Elgon Francolin, a highly range-restricted bird. We did see a few Red-tufted Sunbirds, but I didn't get a proper photo - only this distant shot of a male:
And these poor photos of a female:
Another range-restricted species that we enjoyed great views of was Jackson's Francolin. They are found also in slightly lower elevations. From up-close they display a splendid plumage.
A fascinating bird we saw was a potentially undescribed martin sp. It looks superficially like Plain Martin, but has a distinctly pale center of the throat. It breeds very high up on the Aberdares, at 3200 m. We saw them well but failed to get a photo. I did take a photo of their active nests.
Forest birding in lower elevations was spectacular. I really enjoyed it. So many cool birds.
Hartlaub's Turaco
Crowned Eagle
Sharpe's Starling - so smart
Eastern Double-collared Sunbird
Hunter's Cisticolas were everywhere
Moustached Tinkerbird - so tiny!
Best bird in the world - Brown Woodland-Warbler
Rameron Pigeon
Yellow-crowned Canaries
Malachite Sunbird - simply brilliant
How many Silvery-cheeked Hornbills can you count on this fruiting tree?
We didn't see too many mammals. Giant Forest Hogs were cool.
Plains Zebras up in the mountains
Next destination - Mt. Kenya. Stay tuned!
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