Uganda part 5 - Queen Elizabeth NP

On December 7th 2025 we headed from Kibale towards Queen Elizabeth NP. En route we stopped at a few places, including a lunch stop at Chimpanzee Forest Lodge. I ate very quickly to leave time for a little bit of birding before heading off. The lodge grounds held excellent birds, including Great Blue Turacos, Green-headed and Olive-bellied Sunbirds, and more (eBird checklist here).

Black-crowned Waxbill

Brimstone Canary

We also did a mandatory stop at the equator crossing spot - thanks Yani for the snap.

We arrived at Queen Elizabeth NP in the afternoon.

We stayed in the national park for two nights (until December 9th). After a few days of neck-wrecking forest birding, it was good to bird in open country again. The beautiful savanna habitat of Queen Elizabeth held so many birds and mammals. Every safari drive was packed with quality birds and offered surprises.

One of the hugest bull Elephants we met

Defasa Waterbuck

Wattled Lapwing looking smart

Senegal Lapwing looking elegant

Black-bellied Bustard looking a bit silly

Small Buttonquail looking weird

Harlequin Quail looking shocked (encountered during a night drive)

The undoubted birding highlight of our stay in QENP was a boat trip along Kazinga Channel. Similar to the boat trip we did in Murchinson Falls NP, this boat trip should not be missed. Despite the midday heat and harsh light, it was fabulous (eBird checklist here).

Woodland Kingfisher

Can you pot the male Greater Painted-Snipe? Here with Spur-winged Lapwing, Common Ringed-Plover, and Wood Sandpiper:

Goliath Heron

Plenty of gulls and terns along the channel, including good numbers of African Skimmers, this is a recently-fledged young, already looking sharp:

Lesser Black-backed Gull of some sort, maybe heuglini? Head is a bit too streaked IMO but mantle isn't jet black enough for fuscus:

Gray-hooded Gulls

There were many mammals by the water, mainly Buffalos, and literally tons and tons of Elephants. Mammals = Yellow-billed Oxpeckers:

We had fantastic luck with cats in QENP. One evening we encountered not one but two Leopards, just before dusk. Super animals.

That pattern

The big surprise happened after dusk, when we spotted a mindblowing SERVAL hiding in tall grass. What an incredible animal and we had fantastic views. Despite many previous visits to Kenya and Tanzania, this was my bimbo Serval. Wow.

Our accommodation in Queen Elizabeth National Park was at Buffalo Safari Lodge. It was wonderful there, the rooms and facilities, and the birding. The only issue was that after dusk walking around is not advised without armed escort. Because of these guys.

As mentioned above, birding was excellent at Buffalo Safari Lodge.

One can never have enough of Black-headed Gonoleks, even when they behave like House Sparrows:

Can you see me?

Nubian Woodpecker

Chasing off an opponent

Swamp Flycatchers were feeding a young just by the restaurant

Gimme that hoverfly!

Taken by phone

Double-toothed Barbet

Northern Crombec

Red-chested Sunbird

Rooftop Red-necked Spurfowls

Tanzania days 7 - 9 - Serengeti

How can one summarize four days in one of the world's greatest wildlife reserves in one short blogpost? big challenge but I will try. Our next destination during the recent Rockjumper tour I led was the world-famous Serengeti National Park. We arrived in the afternoon of November 10th, spent two full days in the park (November 11th and 12th) and drove out on November 13th. We stayed at Kontiki Tented Camp, located west of central Serengeti. It was wonderful to stay there, and its position also provided easy access to the western corridor of Serengeti. 

I will start with mammals. Heavy rains in the southwest of Serengeti resulted in fresh grass developing there. This brought in large numbers of mammals, and it was fascinating and thrilling to watch those mobile parades of thousands on Wildebeest and Zebra, feasting on the green grass. 

Happy Elephants

And Giraffes

Plenty of Hippos in the Hippo pools

Some served as Black Crake habitat

For most 'normal' tourists visiting the Serengeti, Big Cats are the main target. Despite our focus on birds, we did quite well in that area too. On our second full day, in the central zone of Seronera, we encountered three (!) Leopards, resting in trees. They are such beautiful animals.

Spot the plane in the background, coming in to land on the airstrip

When we watched this Leopard resting up in a tree, a naïve Giraffe approached the tree, unaware of the predator ambushing above its head. We could see the Leopard contemplating what to do with the stupid Giraffe: To jump or not? Eventually it chose not to go for it, perhaps because it was a very large Giraffe, oversized for a Leopard I guess.

Lions were plentiful, normally seen sleeping. 

The Lion King

Sorry for the graphic images. It was a breathtaking encounter, to watch this lioness with four cubs feeding on a fresh Zebra kill.

When we found this Lioness it was obvious she was meaning business. Check the look in her eyes - she was going for a kill. A large herd of Wildebeest and Zebra had just crossed a nearby stream, in a very tight formation. 

She brushed against our jeep - close enough to stroke her. Check her focused look. From so close all her scars, cuts and parasites were evident. Maybe because she was solitary her attack didn't succeed, but it was very exciting to watch, too quick to photograph.

This Spotted Hyena deserves a cuddle doesn't it?

Haartebeest - one of the less familiar antelopes

On the way out of the park we bumped into this African Wolf - a very cool mammal

Many mammals carried passengers - Red-billed Oxpeckers:

Yellow-billed Oxpecker on this Buffalo

Sometimes it was challenging to decide what to look at, birds or mammals. We birded hard, and saw so many great birds. Naabi Hill Gate hosted a battle of giants, two groups of Black-Lored Babblers clashed and it was stunning to watch:

We had there our first Hildebrandt's Starlings as well

Plenty of the iconic (and threatened) Kori Bustards inside the park

Secretarybird is another iconic bird, albeit bizarre

So is Lappet-faced Vulture - prettier from a distance

Early morning sunning for this Ruppell's Vulture, after a cold, wet night

Bateleur - never boring

Hartlaub's Bustard

Gray-breasted Spurfowl - endemic

Check that eye of the Greater Kestrel

Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse after drinking - so beautiful (Black-headed Heron in the background). Check the primary moult in the male

Gray-backed Fiscals

Isabelline Shrike - one of many Palearctic migrants we saw

Usambiro (D'Arnaud's) Barbet

Fischer's Lovebirds were present in good numbers but not easy to photograph

We found the woodland near Kontiki very productive. Right by the camp we found, among the many birds, two very good species - Brown-backed Honeybird, looking and behaving very flycatcher-like:

And Miombo Wren-Warbler

Striped Kingfisher

Gray-crested Helmetshrikes - such charismatic and noisy birds

Pearl-spotted Owlet

A trip out to the western corridor on our first morning was highly successful. We found Black-headed Gonolek at a few spots. Super birds. This pair performed very well but for some reason my camera didn't. Sorry.

One of our main targets was Maasai Apalis, recently split from Karamoja Apalis, endemic to Serengeti/Maasai Mara system, found only in this unique thorny acacia habitat.

It took us some searching but eventually we found a trio of this globally threatened beauty. What a privilege to spend time with these rare birds. 

They performed very well

They even sang to us!

Out in the west we found another good bird - Levant Sparrowhawk. In recent years it has been discovered to be a rare but fairly regular migrant and winter visitor to the Serengeti. This information doesn't appear in the Birds of East Africa book yet - according to my friend Itai Shanni this information will appear in the next edition.

Next destination - Ngorongoro!